Specific or missing profiles can usually be created using a calibrated color target like X-Rite Colorcheker Passport or the like. Profiles are camera nodel-dependent, and if you're very picky, dependent on each camera so you create profiles for each camera.įree software like Rawtherapee may take a far longer time to fully support a camera - that's why it advises about "If you have an ICC or DCP input profile for your CR3-producing camera, you will need to point RawTherapee to it manually (Color tab > Color Management > Input Profile > Custom)." More that one profile can be made for different kind of images. Styles/profiles remap those data (like ICC profiles do) to deliver a good starting point - especially contrast and saturation. Go up a level from the User directory then unzip the preset folder into the Extra directory, they will then appear in their own category. Unzip the presets directly into this folder they will appear under the Custom preset category. Demosaicing rebuilds each pixel RGB data from the Bayer array, but those are still raw data. Fuji XTrans III Profiles ready to use in RawTherapee and Affinity Photo. Without them, RAW data usually look flat and desaturated, because they have much more data than any screen can display, and don't store data like the human eye expects. I find leaving the temperature setting as shot and letting LR do an auto setting for Tint looks more natural to me than just leaving both at 'as shot' or using the LR auto button to set both sliders automatically.That's because DPP and other tools apply after demosaicing what DPP calls "Picture styles" and Lightroom "Camera Calibration Profiles". You can now hold down the Shift key and double click on the Temperature label or the Tint label to the left of your 2 slider controls for WB and LR will set that particular setting automatically without changing the other slider, giving you the LR auto setting for one of the 2 parameters and the 'as shot' setting for the other. There is a new feature in LR6/LR CC 2015, however, that I like even better. You can't shoot without setting a WB setting so you may as well set the camera to Auto WB, do a manual white balance on a white balance target, or try to set it to the most appropriate setting from the choices offered.Īs others have said, I find Olympus gets it pretty right with the Auto WB setting and I prefer LR's "as shot" colour rendition to what it does if you use LR's Auto WB option. If that doesn't work I just do it by eye - the warm-cool slider is pretty easy to get right by eye and then I just fiddle with the magenta/green slider until it looks right on my screen!Īs barry13 said, the WB setting gets written into the metadata and LR uses that metadata entry to display the image. I've found using the dropper on the whites of someone's eyes to give pretty accurate results. Using the White Balance dropper in Lightroom is the best way of recovering white balance, in my experience, as long as there is some neutral grey in the photo. However when I'm indoors I'll choose a suitable preset or set a custom white balance. Regarding whether or not to shoot in auto white balance, I tend to shoot auto when out and about outside, and get good results. I tend to find that the Lightroom preselects are overly orange. From my experience the Lightroom settings for white balance preselects do not match my EM-5, for instance shooting with the "cloudy" setting and then selecting the Lightroom "cloudy" setting produces very different results. When you load a RAW image into Lightroom it will apply the white balance as per the meta data.
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